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av:rgb_mod [2006/05/09 15:33] 66.90.200.196av:rgb_mod [2019/08/27 20:45] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
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 {{ av:largerainbowline.gif }} {{ av:largerainbowline.gif }}
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 =====Replacing The Cable===== =====Replacing The Cable=====
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 After finding all of the necessary wires I cut off the wires I won't be using, strip the insulation off of all three ground wires, braid the three ground wires with the main ground shield wire, and twirl it around near where the insulation was cut. After finding all of the necessary wires I cut off the wires I won't be using, strip the insulation off of all three ground wires, braid the three ground wires with the main ground shield wire, and twirl it around near where the insulation was cut.
  
-{{ av:cable3.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_cable3.jpg }}
  
 Now it is time to remove the cable from the GameCube plug. To start I pry the clamp from the cable as shown below. Now it is time to remove the cable from the GameCube plug. To start I pry the clamp from the cable as shown below.
  
-{{ av:cable4.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_cable4.jpg }}
  
 After prying the clamp from the cable I then de-solder the ground shield from the PCB. There are two posts at two of the corners. One of them is highlighted with a yellow arrow. After prying the clamp from the cable I then de-solder the ground shield from the PCB. There are two posts at two of the corners. One of them is highlighted with a yellow arrow.
  
-{{ av:ground1.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_ground1.jpg }}
  
 Unfortunately, because of the way the plug is constructed, you cannot totally take it apart. The best you can do is to pry the shield off a little to gain access to the main video wires as shown in the picture below. Notice how the wires are positioned Green-Blue-Red not Blue-Green-Red. Unfortunately, because of the way the plug is constructed, you cannot totally take it apart. The best you can do is to pry the shield off a little to gain access to the main video wires as shown in the picture below. Notice how the wires are positioned Green-Blue-Red not Blue-Green-Red.
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 To remove a wire you have to use a thin soldering iron to go inside to melt the solder long enough to allow you to pull the wire away. I used a pair of tweezers to help pull the wires off of the board. To remove a wire you have to use a thin soldering iron to go inside to melt the solder long enough to allow you to pull the wire away. I used a pair of tweezers to help pull the wires off of the board.
  
-{{ av:plug3.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_plug3.jpg }}
  
 I then cut the cable about two inches from the plug and strip off everything except the main ground wire. You cannot remove the ground wire from the board but you won't need to. When all is said and done you should have the plug looking like what is shown in the picture below. I then cut the cable about two inches from the plug and strip off everything except the main ground wire. You cannot remove the ground wire from the board but you won't need to. When all is said and done you should have the plug looking like what is shown in the picture below.
  
-{{ av:plug4.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_plug4.jpg }}
  
 Before doing anything else, remove the stress relief from the old cable and put it on the new cable. The monitor cable I used for this project just happened to be the exact diameter of the original cable so the stress relief fit like a glove. Before doing anything else, remove the stress relief from the old cable and put it on the new cable. The monitor cable I used for this project just happened to be the exact diameter of the original cable so the stress relief fit like a glove.
  
-{{ av:cable5.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_cable5.jpg }}
  
 One of the trickiest parts to this is to take the three video lines from the monitor cable and solder them to the PCB. What I did is to tin the wire for the green line and put a small blob on the end (using silver based solder). Then I placed the wire between the shield and the board and moved it around until the end was right where it needed to go. Then I quickly put the soldering iron through the gap and soldered the wire into place. I repeated the process for the other two video lines. One of the trickiest parts to this is to take the three video lines from the monitor cable and solder them to the PCB. What I did is to tin the wire for the green line and put a small blob on the end (using silver based solder). Then I placed the wire between the shield and the board and moved it around until the end was right where it needed to go. Then I quickly put the soldering iron through the gap and soldered the wire into place. I repeated the process for the other two video lines.
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 After that I clamped the cable into place making sure that the main ground wire was touching the ground wires for the cable. This completed the necessary ground connection for the unit. After that I soldered the ground shield back onto the PCB. In the picture below I have pretty much done everything except to connect the sync lines. After that I clamped the cable into place making sure that the main ground wire was touching the ground wires for the cable. This completed the necessary ground connection for the unit. After that I soldered the ground shield back onto the PCB. In the picture below I have pretty much done everything except to connect the sync lines.
  
-{{ av:plug5.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_plug5.jpg }}
  
 In the picture below you can see where I marked the sync lines. Yellow is Horizontal Sync (Pin 21) and pink is Vertical Sync (Pin 22). In the picture below you can see where I marked the sync lines. Yellow is Horizontal Sync (Pin 21) and pink is Vertical Sync (Pin 22).
  
-{{ av:pins2.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_pins2.jpg }}
  
 After trimming the wires and tinning them I then soldered them to their respective pins as shown in the picture below. The black/white wire is for Horizontal Sync and the brown/white wire is for Vertical Sync. I also scraped the area between the two pins to make sure that they weren't touching each other. After trimming the wires and tinning them I then soldered them to their respective pins as shown in the picture below. The black/white wire is for Horizontal Sync and the brown/white wire is for Vertical Sync. I also scraped the area between the two pins to make sure that they weren't touching each other.
  
-{{ av:pins3.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_pins3.jpg }}
  
 After connecting the sync I then covered the area with insulating compound and let it dry. After connecting the sync I then covered the area with insulating compound and let it dry.
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 After that I put everything back together. For the ground shield you have to hook the bottom part under the PCB then squeeze it closed. The stress relief fits into the case one way. Make sure you have it properly positioned before closing the case back up. Once reassembly is done you will now have a complete RGB modified GameCube cable like in the picture below. After that I put everything back together. For the ground shield you have to hook the bottom part under the PCB then squeeze it closed. The stress relief fits into the case one way. Make sure you have it properly positioned before closing the case back up. Once reassembly is done you will now have a complete RGB modified GameCube cable like in the picture below.
  
-{{ av:cable6.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_cable6.jpg }}
  
 {{ av:largerainbowline.gif }} {{ av:largerainbowline.gif }}
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 =====Using the Cable===== =====Using the Cable=====
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 One option I have done for myself is to make a special box just for the GameCube for use with my NEC MultiSync 3D monitor. I put in a HD-15 (male) and a DB-9 (male) plug on one side and two RCA jacks plus a HD-15 (female) plug on the other side. In the picture below you can see the box. The beige cable is the GameCube cable and the gray cable is my SNES/N64 RGB cable which is used for the sound. The rounded box in the background is my standard RGB box that has a EL1883 sync chip inside and is used with my custom made RGB cables for my other consoles. The gray cable connected to it is going to my Xbox. One option I have done for myself is to make a special box just for the GameCube for use with my NEC MultiSync 3D monitor. I put in a HD-15 (male) and a DB-9 (male) plug on one side and two RCA jacks plus a HD-15 (female) plug on the other side. In the picture below you can see the box. The beige cable is the GameCube cable and the gray cable is my SNES/N64 RGB cable which is used for the sound. The rounded box in the background is my standard RGB box that has a EL1883 sync chip inside and is used with my custom made RGB cables for my other consoles. The gray cable connected to it is going to my Xbox.
  
-{{ av:box1.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_box1.jpg }}
  
 If you have a 9-pin Commodore monitor you can do something similar. You can put a 9-pin plug in place of the HD-15 (female) plug and you can use the sync mix method mentioned in the first paragraph within the box to create Composite Sync. Then use a 9-pin serial cable to connect the box to the monitor. If you have a 9-pin Commodore monitor you can do something similar. You can put a 9-pin plug in place of the HD-15 (female) plug and you can use the sync mix method mentioned in the first paragraph within the box to create Composite Sync. Then use a 9-pin serial cable to connect the box to the monitor.
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 =====Progressive Scan Use===== =====Progressive Scan Use=====
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 To start up a game in Progressive Scan, put the Progressive Scan capable game in the GameCube. Before turning it on, hold down the B Button on the GameCube controller. Turn on the GameCube. After about thirty seconds or so a message will come up on the screen asking if you want to start the game in Progressive Scan and the Yes option is highlighted. It should be noted that if you are using a standard VGA monitor you won't see this message because the startup screen is in 15Khz. After about ten seconds the game will boot up in Progressive Scan mode on its own unless you choose No. To start up a game in Progressive Scan, put the Progressive Scan capable game in the GameCube. Before turning it on, hold down the B Button on the GameCube controller. Turn on the GameCube. After about thirty seconds or so a message will come up on the screen asking if you want to start the game in Progressive Scan and the Yes option is highlighted. It should be noted that if you are using a standard VGA monitor you won't see this message because the startup screen is in 15Khz. After about ten seconds the game will boot up in Progressive Scan mode on its own unless you choose No.
  
-It should be noted that the when using the Game Boy Player you don't need to hold the B Button on startup. The Progressive Scan question will come up on its own.+It should be noted that when using the Game Boy Player you don't need to hold the B Button on startup. The Progressive Scan question will come up on its own.
  
 A demonstration of the GameCube in VGA mode is shown in the picture below using "Star Wars: Rogue Squadron II" for the software. A demonstration of the GameCube in VGA mode is shown in the picture below using "Star Wars: Rogue Squadron II" for the software.
  
-{{ av:screen1.jpg }}+{{ av:ngc_screen1.jpg }}
  
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 Author and pictures: [[http://nfg.2y.net/forum/index.php?showuser=171|RARusk]] Author and pictures: [[http://nfg.2y.net/forum/index.php?showuser=171|RARusk]]
av/rgb_mod.1147152786.txt.gz · Last modified: 2019/08/27 20:44 (external edit)