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av:snes_sp_dif [2005/10/30 11:06] – created nfgav:snes_sp_dif [2006/04/03 15:39] – 172.161.20.252
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 I'm assuming you already have a 4.5mm Nintendo screwdriver bit, otherwise you're going to have some difficulty getting into your SNES.  Remove the six screws from the bottom, then take the top of the deck off.  If you live in North America, you'll likely be presented with one of the two images:  I'm assuming you already have a 4.5mm Nintendo screwdriver bit, otherwise you're going to have some difficulty getting into your SNES.  Remove the six screws from the bottom, then take the top of the deck off.  If you live in North America, you'll likely be presented with one of the two images: 
-{{apu-module.jpg}} {{apu-onboard.jpg}}+{{av:apu-module.jpg}} {{av:apu-onboard.jpg}}
  
 Look in the upper right corner.  If you see a silver box that reads SHVC-SOUND, then you have one of the first SNES decks. Look in the upper right corner.  If you see a silver box that reads SHVC-SOUND, then you have one of the first SNES decks.
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 Next you'll need to take the lid off the underside of the module (the side with the 24-pin connector).  Slide a small standard screwdriver under the lip on one of the sides.  Carefully push the lip off the module.  Do this on each side until the lid comes off.  Next you'll need to take the lid off the underside of the module (the side with the 24-pin connector).  Slide a small standard screwdriver under the lip on one of the sides.  Carefully push the lip off the module.  Do this on each side until the lid comes off. 
  
-{{shvc-sound.jpg}}+{{av:shvc-sound.jpg}}
  
 __2.2 Getting the heatsink off__ __2.2 Getting the heatsink off__
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 __2.3 Toss the RF module__ __2.3 Toss the RF module__
  
-{{rfmodule.jpg}}+{{av:rfmodule.jpg}}
  
  When was the last time you used the RF adaptor?  If your home theater system is sophisticated enough that you need an S/PDIF out, then you probably won't be using the RF adaptor with your TV.  I mention this because the RF out is a good place to put your S/PDIF connector.  This way you don't need to drill any new holes in your case.  When was the last time you used the RF adaptor?  If your home theater system is sophisticated enough that you need an S/PDIF out, then you probably won't be using the RF adaptor with your TV.  I mention this because the RF out is a good place to put your S/PDIF connector.  This way you don't need to drill any new holes in your case.
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 Rather than draw up a schematic, I've made a table of the pins you need to connect.  The S-DSP column contains the pins you need to connect to if you have a two chip APU, and the S-APU column contains the pins you need to connect to if you have a single chip APU. Rather than draw up a schematic, I've made a table of the pins you need to connect.  The S-DSP column contains the pins you need to connect to if you have a two chip APU, and the S-APU column contains the pins you need to connect to if you have a single chip APU.
-[quote] +<code> 
-S-DSP S-APU CS8405A Pin +S-DSP S-APU CS8405A  Pin 
-33 3 +5VDC  1    COPY/C [CS bit 2] Copyright = 1 (allow copying) +33 3 +5VDC  1    COPY/C [CS bit 2] Copyright = 1 (allow copying) 
- 2 VL2+ + 2 VL2+ 
- 3 EMPH [CS bits 3-5] Emphasis = 0 (no emphasis) + 3 EMPH [CS bits 3-5] Emphasis = 0 (no emphasis) 
- 4 SFMT0 Data input is 16-bits right justified + 4 SFMT0 Data input is 16-bits right justified 
- 5 SFMT1 " " + 5 SFMT1 " " 
- 6 VD+ + 6 VD+ 
- 11 TCBLD TCBL is output + 11 TCBLD TCBL is output 
- 20 VL3+ + 20 VL3+ 
- 23 VL+ + 23 VL+ 
- 24 H/S Select hardware mode for controlling channel-status (CS) bit + 24 H/S Select hardware mode for controlling channel-status (CS) bit 
- 27 VL4++ 27 VL4+
    
-52 95 GND<sup>1</sup> 7 DGND4 +52 95 GND(1) 7 DGND4 
- 8 DGND3 + 8 DGND3 
- 10 APMS Set data input to slave mode (input is controlled by ISCLK) + 10 APMS Set data input to slave mode (input is controlled by ISCLK) 
- 16 CEN Select hardware mode A for setting channel status + 16 CEN Select hardware mode A for setting channel status 
- 17 V [Validity bit] Sub-frame contains valid sample data + 17 V [Validity bit] Sub-frame contains valid sample data 
- 18 U [User bit] Always 0 + 18 U [User bit] Always 0 
- 19 AUDIO<sup>2</sup>  [CS bit 1] Non-Audio = 0 (block contains audio data) + 19 AUDIO(2)  [CS bit 1] Non-Audio = 0 (block contains audio data) 
- 22 DGND + 22 DGND 
- 28 ORIG [CS bits 0 & 15] Pro = 0 (consumer format), L (Category Code MSB) = 0 (original recording)+ 28 ORIG [CS bits 0 & 15] Pro = 0 (consumer format), L (Category Code MSB) = 0 (original recording)
    
-47 16 RST  9 RST Reset +47 16 RST  9 RST Reset 
-43 94 32kHz  12 ILRCK Left/Right sample clock+43 94 32kHz  12 ILRCK Left/Right sample clock
 42 92 1.536MHz 13 ISCLK Sample bit clock 42 92 1.536MHz 13 ISCLK Sample bit clock
-44 93 DATA  14 SDIN Sample data input+44 93 DATA  14 SDIN Sample data input
 78 52  8.192MHz    21 OMCK Master clock 78 52  8.192MHz    21 OMCK Master clock
    
-Not connected  15 TCBL +Not connected  15 TCBL 
- 25 TXN+ 25 TXN
    
-Output  26 TXP S/PDIF output +Output  26 TXP S/PDIF output 
-[/quote]+</code>
 <sup>1</sup> Instead of grounding to the DSP, I soldered pin 28 of the CS8405A to the mainboard and tied all grounds there.  This doubled as a way to anchor the chip. <sup>1</sup> Instead of grounding to the DSP, I soldered pin 28 of the CS8405A to the mainboard and tied all grounds there.  This doubled as a way to anchor the chip.
  
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 Using the clock signals from the DSP results in synchronous operation in the CS8405A, but the output from the DSP isn't exactly 32kHz.  Using the clock signals from the DSP results in synchronous operation in the CS8405A, but the output from the DSP isn't exactly 32kHz. 
  
-{{snes-hz.jpg}}+{{av:snes-hz.jpg}}
  
 As you can see here, my SNES is outputting samples at about 32040Hz.  (Though you can't see the detail in this picture, the upper trace is of the 16-bit samples and the lower trace is the sample clock.)  This shouldn't be a problem unless you're trying to sync S/PDIF devices or your input device insists on using its own clock. As you can see here, my SNES is outputting samples at about 32040Hz.  (Though you can't see the detail in this picture, the upper trace is of the 16-bit samples and the lower trace is the sample clock.)  This shouldn't be a problem unless you're trying to sync S/PDIF devices or your input device insists on using its own clock.
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 If you want to use a coaxial (RCA) output, you'll need to throw in a couple of resistors to drop the voltage down to the consumer grade 0.5 volts. If you want to use a coaxial (RCA) output, you'll need to throw in a couple of resistors to drop the voltage down to the consumer grade 0.5 volts.
-{{coaxial.gif}}+{{av:coaxial.gif}}
    
 **__4. Put it back together__** **__4. Put it back together__**
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 Here's the final product.  I don't have a very good digital camera, or I'd have put up better pictures.  Here's the final product.  I don't have a very good digital camera, or I'd have put up better pictures. 
  
-{{snes-final.jpg}}+{{av:snes-final.jpg}}
  
 Hope you remember where all those screws went. :) Hope you remember where all those screws went. :)
av/snes_sp_dif.txt · Last modified: 2019/08/27 20:45 by 127.0.0.1