This is an old revision of the document!
Will be updating/completing shortly.
Hi all, I've figured out how to permanently fix the green tint issue between the official Sony PSX 5“ screen and the slim PSTwo. As of this writing, mine has been running for 2 hours 12 minutes, and exhibits NO problem.
First off, a little background… I personally have seen the green tint issue, and on the exact same PSTwo and PSX screen used in this example, the effects were noticeable after 20-30 minutes of play. I've read segasonicfan's thread, which had eastsider_1's fix for connecting the R and B lines to +5v, and segasonicfan's revised method of jumping R and B together, which did help me, but I found that a bit annoying and figured I could do better.
I started looking at the screen's PCB last week, checking datasheets for the main IC's and tracing signals. I was interested to find that the LCD signal processor (Panasonic AN2526NFH) required only a 1uf capacitor on each of the RGB lines, but that Sony had thrown in a bunch of other components - extra caps, IC's, signal switches, resistors, transistors, etc. I figured part of that was to be able to switch between RGB and te external composite input, but of course I didn't need that. I found 3 SMD capacitors, marked as CV53, CV54, and CV55. These are inline with the red, green, and blue lines, respectively, and are rated at 10uf.
Basically, at this point I thought, “why not bypass all the extra crap?” so I did, and it works! As of this writing, mine has been running for 2 hours 21 minutes, and exhibits NO problem.
Now for the important part: how you can do it too! All that's required is to find those 3 capacitors, lift one end up (the end that doesn't connect to the signal processor), and connect 3 wires from the input connector directly to those 3 caps! I didn't touch the sync signal at all, and I didn't disconnect the RGB signal from the original circuit, save for lifting the 3 caps.
So far, I've played 75 minutes of Shin Megami Tensei: Nocturne, and didn't notice any extra green tint. I switched it off and ate dinner at this point. I then switched over to Persona 4 for 20 minutes, and after deciding that wasn't quite colorful enough, I played Okami for 2 hours 21 minutes straight. NO GREEN TINT! The only downside is that the signal is very bright. I've turned the screen's brightness down all the way, and the picture is still a bit bright for me; however, the improvement is more than worth the tradeoff. Perhaps I'll throw a resistor on each line to tone it down a bit…
Now for pictures:
All pictures were taken with fixed white balance on my Canon EOS 300D. Raw format, no retouching afterward, except for a tad of brightness adjustment. Resized to 800×600, then saved as a jpg, compression level 8. On my monitor, the colors shown accurately represent what was shown on the Sony LCD.
These are the 3 caps in question. Basically, I've removed them and resoldered them upright, so as to only connect on one end. I then soldered the 3 wires to the PCB input connector. Note that I've lifted the lower side of the cap up, so that it's standing only on the upper connection of the footprint.
Here's the other end of those wires. I used 30ga insulated magnet wire for this, but you can use whatever you want. On the input connector, pins 4, 5, and 6 (counted from bottom up) correspond to red, green, and blue.