ps2psxlcd:sony_psx_screen_on_ps2_info
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ps2psxlcd:sony_psx_screen_on_ps2_info [2010/01/26 10:00] – created tertiumsquid | ps2psxlcd:sony_psx_screen_on_ps2_info [2022/04/08 14:11] (current) – tertiumsquid | ||
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- | Will be updating/ | + | A common problem with creating portable PSTwo systems is that the screen turns green after 20 or 30 minutes. |
+ | The short: | ||
+ | Lift the lower end of each of the CV53, CV54, and CV55 SMD caps on the PSOne LCD board. | ||
+ | Connect the R G and B inputs directly to the lower end of these caps, with CV53 to Red, CV54 to Green, and CV55 to Blue. | ||
+ | This bypasses a bunch of extra circuitry, which presumably causes the green tint effect. | ||
+ | Enjoy! | ||
- | Hi all, I've figured out how to permanently fix the green tint issue between the official Sony PSX 5" screen and the slim PSTwo. As of this writing, mine has been running for 2 hours 12 minutes, and exhibits NO problem. | ||
- | First off, a little background... I personally have seen the green tint issue, and on the exact same PSTwo and PSX screen used in this example, the effects were noticeable after 20-30 minutes of play. I've read segasonicfan' | + | The Long: |
- | I started looking at the screen's PCB last week, checking datasheets for the main IC' | + | First off, a little background... |
- | Basically, at this point I thought, "why not bypass all the extra crap?" so I did, and it works! As of this writing, mine has been running for 2 hours 21 minutes, and exhibits NO problem. | + | I started looking at the screen' |
- | Now for the important part: how you can do it too! All that's required is to find those 3 capacitors, lift one end up (the end that doesn' | + | Basically, at this point I thought, "why not bypass all the extra crap?" so I did, and it works! |
- | So far, I've played 75 minutes of Shin Megami Tensei: Nocturne, and didn' | + | To fix this problem, all that's required is to find those 3 capacitors, lift one end up (the end that doesn' |
- | Now for pictures: | + | The only side effect I've noticed is that the picture is a bit brighter than usual, even when the brightness is lowered all the way. Also, this mod may affect the ability to use the external video input, but I didn't test it to find out. |
- | All pictures were taken with fixed white balance on my Canon EOS 300D. Raw format, no retouching afterward, except | + | |
+ | Now for pictures: | ||
These are the 3 caps in question. Basically, I've removed them and resoldered them upright, so as to only connect on one end. I then soldered the 3 wires to the PCB input connector. Note that I've lifted the lower side of the cap up, so that it's standing only on the upper connection of the footprint. | These are the 3 caps in question. Basically, I've removed them and resoldered them upright, so as to only connect on one end. I then soldered the 3 wires to the PCB input connector. Note that I've lifted the lower side of the cap up, so that it's standing only on the upper connection of the footprint. | ||
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+ | {{: | ||
Here's the other end of those wires. I used 30ga insulated magnet wire for this, but you can use whatever you want. On the input connector, pins 4, 5, and 6 (counted from bottom up) correspond to red, green, and blue. | Here's the other end of those wires. I used 30ga insulated magnet wire for this, but you can use whatever you want. On the input connector, pins 4, 5, and 6 (counted from bottom up) correspond to red, green, and blue. | ||
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+ | {{: | ||
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+ | Here's Okami after about 90 minutes: | ||
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+ | {{: | ||
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+ | Any question or comments, please post in my original thread [[http:// |
ps2psxlcd/sony_psx_screen_on_ps2_info.1264464046.txt.gz · Last modified: 2019/08/27 20:44 (external edit)